Flavors
of Asia
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Many things contribute to the creation of any country's cuisine, but there is probably no land with as many diversified influences as the 7,100-island nation of the Philippines. In the past 500 years, it has been governed by Spain, Mexico, and the U.S.; has been a major trading area for China, India, Malaysia, and Indonesia; and has an abundance of tropical foods, wild game, freshwater fish, and seafood. Each of these factors has made a culinary imprint on Filipino cooking resulting in a cuisine that is unique. Karen Hulene Bartell tackles this intriguing cuisine in her cookbook Fine Filipino Food published in 2003 by Hippocrene Books, Inc.. The 205 recipes offer cooks an opportunity to try a variety of Filipino cooking styles stir-frying, charcoal grilling, sautéing in coconut milk, steaming, baking, and stewing to name a few. Bartell's recipes use familiar foods as well as a wide variety of less familiar things. Pigs' Knuckles boiled, deep-fried then simmered in a vinegar, jalapeño and tomato sauce show both Mexican and Spanish influences. Fresh Ham takes on South Pacific flavors with nine heads of garlic, annatto powder, and dark rum. Venison is simmered in soy sauce with vegetables and bean thread noodles. Quail eggs are boiled then deep-fried in a chicken and breadcrumb batter. There is even a recipe for Whole Suckling Pig and some recipes call for Coca-Cola or Seven-Up (the American influence.) Fine Filipino Food includes recipes for dishes from appetizers to desserts. There are holiday menus, substitution lists, Filipino cooking methods, a glossary, and a list of sources for Filipino ingredients. But the good news is many of the ingredients are available in local markets or Asian specialty stores such as Phil-Oriental Imports, Inc., 789 University Avenue in St. Paul. Filipino cooks like to use either chicken or pork in many of their dishes and often use them together. The combination adds a richness to the chicken and a balance to the pork. One such dish is the national dish of the Philippines, Adobo. Traditionally made of chicken and pork chunks simmered in soy sauce, vinegar, bay leaf, garlic, and whole peppercorns, Adobo is usually served with steamed rice and is often available from street vendors. Because of the vinegar it is also resilient to spoilage. To make a good Adobo, Bartell says, "Allow the vinegar to first reach the boiling point . . . then lower the temperature to a simmer. Never stir the vinegar while simmering, or it will have a 'raw' vinegar taste." She also cautions the cook to use ceramic, glass, stainless steel, or wrought iron saucepans. Do not use aluminum which interacts chemically with the vinegar and impairs the flavor. This is a good dish to make ahead of time and reheat just before serving. Fine Filipino Food is available in local bookstores at the hardcover price of $24.95 or at www.ecookbooks.com for $17.46. (Reprinted from Asian Pages 10/15/04) |
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