Flavors
of Asia

Fish Sauce: The Wonders of Salted Fish

by Phyllis Louise Harris
 

Opening a bottle of fish sauce (nam bplah) for the first time may be a startling experience. The overwhelming smell of fermented fish is like nothing else. Yet this wonderful flavoring from Thailand is one of those secret ingredients that gives many dishes from Southeast Asia and the Philippines their distinctive tastes.

For 18 to 24 months fresh fish is allowed to ferment in salt until it becomes a clear, reddish brown liquid ­ about the color of sherry. That's it - just fish and salt and the chemical changes that time creates. While there are several brands available in the U.S., the best are those using small, very fresh fish, and the natural, long fermentation process. They will have the most subtle fish flavor and are less salty than the lesser grades. Look for bottles of sauce that have a pleasant reddish brown color. If you get a sauce you find too strong, try another brand. Golden Boy is one of the higher grade brands (no additives or artificial processing), but Squid is one of the most easily available. It, too, is naturally processed, but has a stronger, saltier flavor. (It is not made from squid.)

In Vietnam fish sauce is the basis of the country's most popular dipping sauce, nuoc mam cham, and includes lime or lemon juice, chilies, and garlic. Adjust the sugar and chilies to suit your tastes. A basic recipe is:


Nuoc Mam Cham
In a saucepan combine
4 Tbsps. sugar
1/4 cup water
1/2 cup rice vinegar
Bring to a boil and remove from heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Cool then add
4 Tbsps. fresh lemon or lime juice
1/4 cup fish sauce
2 small garlic cloves, crushed
1 small chili pepper, seeded and minced


Mix together and serve at room temperature. May be stored in the refrigerator for several weeks.

Serve as a dipping sauce for dumplings, spring rolls, satays, chicken wings, etc.
Fish sauce also adds flavor and zest to even the simplest soups. In the Philippines chicken broth with mushrooms takes on a flavor depth provided by this handy flavoring. Here the mushrooms are sautéed with garlic then simmered in chicken broth. Fast, easy, healthful and delicious.

For every cup of chicken broth, lightly brown 1 clove of crushed garlic in 1/2 Tbsp. vegetable oil then add 4 ounces of sliced fresh mushrooms (any variety) and stir fry for about 5 minutes. Add broth and bring to a boil. Cover and simmer for 5 minutes. Remove from heat, add fish sauce and freshly ground pepper to taste. Start with 1 Tbsp. fish sauce and adjust according to your taste. Serve hot, garnished with fresh arugula or small spinach leaves. Each cup of broth serves one to two diners.

Fish sauce is not expensive and keeps well so having a bottle on hand is easy. Use it as a salt substitute in meat and fish dishes and add it at the end of the cooking process. But, start small, for a little fish sauce is all you need.

(Reprinted from Asian Pages 2/15/04)

 

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