Flavors
of Asia

Lemon Grass: A Flavor Gem in the Rough

by Phyllis Louise Harris

Look at a stalk of lemon grass and you see a weed. Break it in half and you will experience the wonderful lemony aroma and peppery flavor this "weed" can provide. Lemon grass is one of the essential herbs used in Southeast Asian cuisines and underused here.

Actually, lemon grass is a perennial tall grass with sharp-edged leaves. It grows three to six feet high in tropical climates and is used extensively in the cuisines of Indonesia, Malaysia and Thailand. It is now readily available in markets and can easily become a new favorite flavor in your cooking.

Look for whole lemon grass stalks two to three feet long, that still have some root attached. The leaves should be green and not dried or brown. Remove the outer dry leaves and cut off the root. Trim the lemon grass to just the white, tender portion next to the root (about 2" long). Discard the leaves or make them into a tisane. Trimmed lemon grass pieces may be frozen for several months, thawed and used the same as fresh.

The trick to getting the most flavor from lemon grass is to bruise or chop it just before using. If it is to be served with the dish, then mince and crush it with a mortar and pestle. If it is to be removed before serving, just smash it with a cleaver to release the flavor. Lemon grass is hard to digest so it is never served raw and only added in small amounts to any dish. But the flavor cannot be duplicated.

A great way to try this amazing weed is in a simple chicken/mushroom soup served in Thailand. Here the lemon grass is smashed and added whole then removed before serving. Along with lime juice and fish sauce, lemon grass gives this soup a surprisingly fresh, light flavor. Combined with the heat of the chilies, it makes a wonderful hot and sour soup.

Lemon Grass Mushroom Soup
2 cups chicken broth
12 oz. fresh mushrooms, cleaned and thickly sliced
2 fresh chilies, seeds removed and cut into strips
2" piece lemon grass, tender white portion only
1/2 tsp. lime zest strips
3 Tbsp. fresh lime juice
2 - 3 Tbsp. Thai fish sauce (or more to taste)
1 Tbsp. peanut or vegetable oil

Sauté mushrooms in peanut oil for 5 minutes. Add chilies and cook for 1 minute.
Smash the lemon grass, combine with lime zest and tie together in a cheesecloth bag.
Add chicken broth and bag of seasonings to mushrooms. Bring to a boil and cook over medium heat about 5 minutes. Remove cheesecloth bag. Reduce heat to low and add lime juice and fish sauce. Adjust seasonings and serve.

Serves 4.

(Reprinted from Asian Pages 3/15/04)

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