Flavors
of Asia
by Phyllis Louise Harris |
|
It is amazing that a grain of rice, a little mold, yeast, and water properly handled can produce saké. Japan's most famous alcoholic beverage is finding a growing market in the U. S. and, along with it, the need to understand this brewed concoction. John Gauntner's The Saké Companion provides an introduction to this ancient brew available in local restaurants and stores such as AZIA and France 44. "The process of brewing saké is easily the most complex of any beverage on earth," Gauntner writes. "Although it has continually undergone technical refinements over the last several hundred years, the basic procedure has remained the same. Saké is brewed, as opposed to simply being fermented (like wine) or distilled (like vodka or whiskey)." Saké-making implements date back to 4800 BC in China when nomadic man turned to agriculture and settled down. It has been speculated that the reason he stopped roaming was to grow rice so he could regularly enjoy saké. Since 800 AD saké has been brewed in Japanese kura (breweries) and today is produced in 1,800 kura around the world. There are more than 14,000 different saké with 200 produced by the 4 kura in the United States. One is in Oregon and three in California. Gauntner provides an in-depth history of saké brewing, description of Japanese saké producing areas, and tips on serving and savoring saké. He then offers ratings on 137 saké (5 from the U.S.) and includes copies of each label along with overall descriptions and kura locations. For example, Ama no To, "Umashine" (Junmai ginjo-shu) is brewed in Akita Japan. Gauntner rates it a 90 (or highly recommended on a scale of 75 93) and describes it as "a very well constructed saké, delicately put together, with incredible balance among the flavors." He also explains " Ama no To means 'Heaven's Door;' it has a young feel, which begins with mild green apples in the nose, and continues into the refreshing but settled flavor which comes knock, knock, knocking on your palate." Ama no To is one of the 20 saké varieties available at AZIA on 26th and Nicollet Avenue in Minneapolis. Owner/chef Tom Pham says saké is one of the most popular drinks they serve. While prices range from $10-24 per five-ounce drink AZIA's "Happy Hour" cuts those costs in half every day from 3 to 6 p.m. and10 p.m. to closing. Saké is also available by the bottle. AZIA's oversized saké list includes descriptions of each variety along with definitions of saké terms. Selections range from "clean and dry" to flavors such as watermelon, raisins and nuts. Most are imports from Japan with one from California. The highest rating Gauntner gives to the American saké
in his book is 84 (or good) for SakéOne "Diamond"
brewed in Forest Grove, near Salem, Oregon. Visitors in that
area are encouraged to visit the kura tasting room and tour the
brewery. For more information go to their Web site www.sakeone.com
Locally saké is sold in some liquor stores including France 44 at 44th and France Avenue in Minneapolis where a selection of 11 varieties includes one from Oregon. Small bottles of saké (12 fluid ounces) sell for $7.99 with large 1.8 liter bottles priced at $48.99. The Saké Companion is published by Running Press
with the hardcover price of $24.95. We found it at Atlantic Books
in the Mall of America for $6.98. It is also available at www.amazon.com
for $15.72. Visit John Gauntner's Web site filled with saké
information, sign up for his free newsletter, or contact him
at www.sake-world.com. |
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